Butt of Lewis at High Tide

2/11

For the last few weeks I've been frustrated because I couldn't find a location to get tide predictions for the area. I finally found out I could buy tide tables from the Stornoway Shipping Service, so early this week I went and picked up the tables. These tables also included sunrise and sunset times for Carloway, just down the road here, which was helpful.

On looking at the tables, I saw that since we were at the new moon, we were experiencing the highest tides of the month this week. In fact, the biggest tides of the month overall were on Friday, and it coincided with sunrise -- high tide was 15 minutes after sunrise. How could I resist? Even thought Friday is my hectic "work" day, I had to get up in time to experience the Butt of Lewis at the highest tides, and at sunrise no less.

The Butt of Lewis is the Northernmost point on the island, with craggy rocks that have withstood the high surge of the sea. This is one of my favourite places on earth. I had been hoping to get there to take some good photographs, and hoped this would be my chance. All week, the weather had been predicted to be terrible on Friday, overcast and rainy, and high winds. Then, on Thursday, the weather changed, and they were calling for the best weather of the week on Friday morning. I couldn't believe my luck!

It was a calm day -- almost no wind to speak of, although when I got home I found my hair was so tangled the conditioner wouldn't save it -- I had to work like mad to get it unknotted. But, compared to the usual winds on the cliffs there, it was extremely calm.

I departed Tolstachaolais at 7 am to arrive before sunrise. I wasn't lucky enough to get colour for the sunrise -- there was maybe one minute of some pink, in the wrong direction to get any real surf in with it. But watching the surf come in was totally incredible. The shear force of the sea was obvious, as the water would come up and crash against the rocks with enormous splashes and sprays resulting. I had seen this before, but on those occasions, the wind had been high, and here the wind felt nonexistent. It was hard to believe the sea could have so much force without any assistance from the wind.

I wandered around the lighthouse area at the Butt of Lewis for well over an hour, watching the majestic power of the sea as the light increased. (The sun was behind clouds so you couldn't actually see it come up.) Knowing there were other wonderful places to watch the surf, I finally dragged myself away and went over to nearby Port Sto, another of my favourite places. The waves here were not as majestic, without the wind power behind them. It was still incredible to see it so full of water, and beautiful in the morning light.

From there I drove down to a beach slightly south of this area, called Eoropie. I parked the car and headed out to the beach. This is a true sandy beach, and well-used. There was one person here, walking her dog. I watched the waves crash in on the sands here, and then headed through a gate to walk along the cliffs from Eoropie North to the Butt. This is part of one of the described walks in the book I bought, and this one proved to match the description well. The walking was easy, and the way was clear. I was able to watch surf for the entire walk from Eoropie to the lighthouse, and the views were totally spectacular. Despite the fact that high tide was now more than an hour past, the waves were crashing even more spectacularly on the West side than they had been on the Northern.

The walk was exquisite. It was a cold, crisp day, but with no wind it didn't feel too cold except on my hands. Each turn of the landscape brought more breathtaking views of the rocky coastline. As I walked I passed a wide variety of birds, including various gulls, sandpipers, and oystercatchers in huge flocks. They would take off, scolding me as I came by. (Except the gulls, which ignored me completely.)

On the way, I came to a hill with a cairn on top. I climbed to the cairn and enjoyed the view from there as well. This was close to where the landscape turned sharply to the right, heading towards the actual Butt of Lewis. From here the landscape was even more variegated, with deep clefts carved into the rock by the incessant waves. It reminded me of the Gaelic song, The Eternal Surge of the Sea. (An Ataireachd Ard.)

I walked back to the lighthouse along the coast, enjoying every minute. When I reached the lighthouse, I realized it was late enough that I needed to be heading back, as I had to get my harp and drive to Stornoway to teach harp lessons that afternoon. I headed up the road, past Port Sto again, and back to my car at Eoropie. When I neared my car, a border collie came hustling down the road, excited to see me. He seemed to think I was just the company he'd been wanting, and he accompanied me all the way to my car. He played about a bit in the playground where I'd parked, as I watched.

I was quite impressed with this park -- it is a normal playground in some respects, with playground equipment, and natural dunes and shoreline as a sandbox/playing area, but there were also very cool aspects to highlight the location. There were "standing stones" set up, imitating the Callanish stones, and toadstools for seats, and other creative touches that made the park very special.

On the drive home, I saw a number of animals seeming to think it was spring. There was a pair of highland cows nuzzling each other, with their horns locked. There were sheep frolicking in the road. And there were ducks on a pond in front of a nearby hotel. I stopped here to take their photo, and they all came swimming over to see me expectantly. One of the ducks got out of the water and came right up to me. I'd bought bread in Barvas on my way home, so how could I resist? I pulled out a bun and fed the ducks.

After a quick change to get out of my muddy, damp clothing and getting my stuff together, I drove to Stornoway for another round of lessons with the harpers. I found I was starting to get a feel for the students, which is helpful. Following the lessons, I went out with a group of friends to "The Thai," which is the excellent local Thai restaurant -- one of the best restaurants on the island. We had a great time together, and stopped by one couple's home for cookies and tea before returning home.

It was a long day -- away at 7 am and home at midnight, but it was also a truly wonderful one.

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