Gorgeous Weather Continues and the Trip Home



2/22 - 3/6

view from hill   The next six days continued with the glorious weather, so I spent as much of the time outside as I could. This included several days of walks around the Tolstachaolais area, both repeating familiar territory and exploring new turf. You can read further about those walks if interested here.

Walks around Tolstachaolais

On Friday, I headed to Stornoway, since I had to teach lessons and run an ensemble rehearsal there anyway, and spent some time walking on the Stornoway castle grounds. This was quite rewarding, as there is a forest there, and I got to see a lot of trees, which is one thing that Lewis is lacking in most areas. Also, the birdlife there is very active, and I got to see a number of types of birds I had not seen during the rest of my trip. It was good that the walks were good, as this Friday was quite depressing when it came to the teaching -- first my ensemble met, but only two people showed up. Then, all three of my scheduled lessons fell through. One didn't even bother to call to cancel. It was quite demoralizing and frustrating.

  view from hill
view from Dun Eistein   The depressing end to Friday had me missing Wayne quite badly, so I went back to the Morrison homeplace on Saturday -- the northern tip of Lewis, where Dun Eistein lies. The weather was stunningly beautiful. Sunday I spent the day with Laura and Justin, walking in the Uig area, which was also gorgeous. You can read more about those walks here if interested.

Final Weekend

After teaching some lessons and catching up on my weaving Monday, Tuesday brought the return of winter to the area. The weather was cold and variably sunny and rainy, but I knew my days here were numbered, and didn't want to miss any more chances to walk here. I decided a series of short walks might work best for this, so I headed back to Uig to explore small chunks of the area there. It's a big area, and I hadn't explored much of it, so it was a good place for this sort of excursion. It proved to be a wonderful day, despite the fact that I ended up unable to finish my plans because the weather turned to terrible to work with -- the winds were too high to walk on Uig sands. You can read more about those excursions here.

Uig Walks

Mealasta

Wednesday morning was spent doing practicing and starting some packing/cleaning that had to be done before I leave. I also wrote accompaniment for my fourth tune, and wrote a fifth tune. That afternoon I met with Norma for a final weaving lesson and harp lesson, which was a great deal of fun, but sad because it was the end of these for some time. I hope to come back someday to work with her on a loom for a project, which I think would be great fun. Norma and Ian are really terrific people, and I hope I'll get to see them again before too long.

I spent part of the evening with my landlady and her mother playing some tunes for them. I played my first three new tunes, and also Banks of Lochiel, because I knew it had Gaelic lyrics, and Mairi's Wedding, on request. My landlady says the guy who wrote this song was born in Tolstachaolais. She gave me a beautiful gift -- a silver necklace with St. Clements on it! I was so touched and surprised.

Uig sands   Thursday was my last "free" day on Lewis, and I wanted to take advantage of it. The weather forecast was for heavy rains and wind in the afternoon, so I got up early and headed back to Uig sands to try one last time to take a walk there. Although I got soaked doing it, I was successful, and had a wonderful walk. I also got to see a large flock of lapwings, one of my favorite birds, so I was thrilled. That evening I had a final meal and social time with Laura and Justin. They fixed me a delicious meal and treated me to great company, also giving me a stunning gift of a book of photographs of the Hebrides. They also had me play my new tunes for them while they recorded them. You can read more about Thursday here.

Uig Sands

Friday was a heavily scheduled day, as I had agreed to go out to lunch with my landlady, and I was then meeting Sascha and Angeles for tea, followed by my final stint of teaching. I again went to Stornoway early to get in a short walk on the castle grounds. Lunch was okay, but a bit awkward, with my landlady. We ran out of things to talk about and ended up ending the lunch rather abruptly. It didn't help for me that she was insisting that I not pay for my phone bill, and I was quite uncomfortable both with the conversation and the concept. My time with Sascha and Angeles was terrific, though. We had a wonderful time and managed not to concentrate on the fact that I was leaving too much. The lessons also went well, starting with my largest ensemble ever -- seven students. After the last lesson, I dashed home to start packing and cleaning. It took a long time, and I didn't get to bed until after midnight, which was not my plan, as I had to get up at 5 am to leave for the ferry.

  Castle Grounds at Stornoway


I was exhausted from my short night, but managed to get everything packed up and in the car. Getting the stuff from where I could park the car to the ferry was quite a challenge, and made me realize how difficult this journey was going to be. I had planned to take the ferry to Ullapoool, then the bus to Inverness, and walk to the train station to catch the train to Glasgow. After walking a very short walk from the car to the ferry station, I realized I would never make the walk from the bus station to the train station will all of my stuff in time to catch the train, so I opted to book straight through on the bus. This made things much easier all around.

I was met at the ferry by Laura and Justin, who were just coming off of an all night on-call night. I was thrilled and touched that they made the time to come see me off, and Laura stood on the bank and waved goodbye until I could no longer see her.

farewell Stornoway

The crossing on the ferry seemed gentle and easy to me, but I heard a lady behind me on the bus telling someone it had been a "terrible" crossing, so I guess it's all in your perspective. There certainly weren't the sheets of water hitting the boat that we had experienced coming over. It was certainly beautiful when leaving Stornoway -- I could see much more than I had coming in, and it was fun to spot some of the locations I had walked or visited during my stay. When we arrived in Ullapool, the fog had rolled in thickly, and the mountains were obscured, but it cleared as we reached the dock, complete with rainbows.

The bus rides were nice enough. Winding through the Cairngorm Mountains, I was reminded of how beautiful the "mainland" of Scotland can be, and vowed to come back and spend some time in that area sometime, in the winter when I can enjoy the snow on the mountains. It was absolutely stunning!

After arriving in Glasgow, I went to meet Cheyenne for the evening. We met at the bus station, wandered through town taking in the RSAMD (Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama) where she is attending, and then went to her flat in town. We had a great time -- she fixed dinner for me and several of her flatmates, and a harp graduate of the RSAMD. Dinner was excellent (she's a good cook!) and time flew by. Before I knew it, it was quite late, and I had to head back to the hotel.

Iceland landscape

Blue Lagoon in Iceland   The flight home was uneventful, with the exception of my layover in Iceland, where I took advantage of the offer to take a short van trip to the Blue Lagoon Geothermal Spa. The spa is about 20 minutes from the airport, and the drive gives you a good idea of the strange and beautiful scenery of Iceland. The rock is volcanic, and there is a green moss growing on much of it. The mountains are magnificient. We arrived at the spa and wandered through a path in the rock to a big bath house, where we showered and changed before entering the naturally hot water of the spa. The water was a beautiful pale blue/green colour, and there was a waterfall that served as a massage, a steam room, and many little nooks and crannies to escape from the crowd in the steaming water. It was beautiful and quite relaxing -- a wonderful way to spend a layover, and it kept me from worrying about my harp the whole time. (An interesting note -- I visited this spa on March 6th, and on my arrival home found the cover of the March 6th Washington Post Magazine had a photo of this very spa for the cover photo.)

Arriving home after the long flight from Iceland to Baltimore, I waited impatiently for my luggage, worrying about the harp. Finally, the oversized luggage was delivered, and my harp was just fine, and carefully handled by the delivery person. What a huge relief. Customs was easy, and soon I found myself in Wayne's arms, home again.

It's been a hard transistion back to working -- I had to hit the ground running, as I had four church services and a concert to play all the weekend after I arrived. Thankfully, it all went well, and things are settling back to normal now. I miss the time to work on creative things, and I especially miss the wondeful walks and the terrific people I left behind, but I will treasure the memory of this soujourn forever.

If you want to read the individual reports, on to

Walks in Tolstachaolais